movimento patek philippe nautilus | Patek Philippe Nautilus price

The Patek Philippe Nautilus. Just the name conjures images of refined luxury, understated elegance, and perhaps, most notably, exclusivity. It's a timepiece that transcends mere function, becoming a symbol of success, taste, and a deep appreciation for horological artistry. But beyond the hype and the waitlists, lies a fascinating story of innovation, evolution, and enduring appeal. This guide delves into the history, models, evolution, and current market for the Patek Philippe Nautilus, exploring why this steel sports watch has become one of the most sought-after luxury timepieces ever made.

A History Forged in Steel: The Birth of the Nautilus

The story of the Nautilus begins in 1976, a time when the watch industry was grappling with the quartz crisis. Traditional Swiss watchmakers were facing stiff competition from cheaper, more accurate quartz watches from Asia. Patek Philippe, known for its classically elegant dress watches, needed a bold move to revitalize its image and appeal to a new generation of watch enthusiasts.

Enter Gérald Genta, a legendary watch designer known for his avant-garde creations. Genta, already famous for designing the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, was tasked with creating a sports watch for Patek Philippe that would be both robust and refined. The result was the Nautilus, reference 3700/1, nicknamed the "Jumbo" due to its relatively large size for the time.

The Nautilus was revolutionary in several ways. Firstly, it was crafted from stainless steel, a material rarely used for high-end watches at the time. Secondly, its design was unlike anything Patek Philippe had produced before. The signature rounded octagonal bezel, inspired by the porthole of a transatlantic liner, was a bold departure from traditional round watch designs. The integrated bracelet, seamlessly flowing from the case, further emphasized the watch's sporty and modern aesthetic.

The watch was powered by the ultra-thin Caliber 28-255 C, based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre 920 movement, known for its reliability and precision. The Nautilus was marketed as a watch that could be worn for both formal and informal occasions, embodying a new concept of luxury that combined robustness and elegance.

The Nautilus Family: A Model Evolution

Over the years, the Nautilus collection has expanded to include a variety of models, each retaining the distinctive design elements of the original while incorporating new complications and materials. Here's a look at some of the key models in the Nautilus family:

* Ref. 3700/1 "Jumbo" (1976-1990): The original Nautilus, characterized by its large size, steel construction, and simple time-and-date function. This is the most iconic and highly sought-after Nautilus model.

* Ref. 3800/1 (1981-2006): A mid-size version of the Nautilus, designed to appeal to a wider range of wrist sizes. It was initially powered by the Caliber 335 SC movement.

* Ref. 3900/1 (1980s): A smaller, ladies' version of the Nautilus.

* Ref. 5711/1A (2006-2021): The successor to the original "Jumbo," featuring a slightly updated design and the in-house Caliber 324 S C movement. The Ref. 5711/1A is arguably the most popular and recognizable Nautilus model of recent times. Its discontinuation in 2021 sent shockwaves through the watch world, driving prices to unprecedented levels.

* Ref. 5712/1A (2006-Present): A Nautilus model with a moon phase, power reserve indicator, and subsidiary seconds. This model is powered by the Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU movement.movimento patek philippe nautilus

* Ref. 5980/1A (2006-Present): A Nautilus chronograph, featuring a flyback chronograph function and powered by the Caliber CH 28-520 C.

* Ref. 5726/1A (2010-Present): An annual calendar Nautilus, displaying the day, date, and month. This model is powered by the Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/303 movement.

* Ref. 5990/1A (2014-Present): A travel time chronograph Nautilus, featuring a dual time zone function and a flyback chronograph. This model is powered by the Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS movement.

* Ref. 7118/1A (2019-Present): The current ladies' Nautilus model, available in various dial colors and with or without diamond accents.

Materials and Finishes: Beyond Steel

While the Nautilus is most famously associated with stainless steel, Patek Philippe has also produced models in other materials, including: