breitling mondphase chrono 90 | Breitling montbrillant 1461

The Breitling Mondphase Chrono 90, often hailed as a cornerstone of Breitling's legacy, represents a fascinating intersection of functionality, elegance, and intricate mechanics. Priced at approximately $4,220.00, depending on condition and provenance, this timepiece occupies a unique space within the pantheon of vintage and neo-vintage Breitling watches. It embodies the spirit of the 1990s while drawing inspiration from the brand’s rich history, particularly its expertise in chronographs and astronomical complications. This article will delve into the intricacies of the Mondphase Chrono 90, exploring its design, movement, history, variations, and collectibility, ultimately providing a comprehensive understanding of this horological icon.

A Symphony of Complications: The Moon Phase and Chronograph

The defining characteristic of the Breitling Mondphase Chrono 90 is, of course, its moon phase complication, or "Mondphase" in German. This captivating feature, a visual representation of the lunar cycle, adds a touch of romance and astronomical intrigue to the already functional chronograph. The moon phase display, typically located at the 6 o'clock position, tracks the waxing and waning of the moon with remarkable accuracy, requiring adjustment only once every few years.

Alongside the moon phase, the Mondphase Chrono 90 boasts a fully functional chronograph, allowing the wearer to measure elapsed time with precision. The chronograph function, operated by pushers located on the side of the case, usually features a central seconds hand, a minute counter (often at the 12 o'clock position), and an hour counter (typically at the 6 o'clock position, sometimes integrated with the moon phase display). This combination of complications – the chronograph for practical timekeeping and the moon phase for aesthetic and astronomical appeal – makes the Mondphase Chrono 90 a truly versatile and captivating timepiece.

Design and Aesthetics: A Blend of Classic and Modern

The design of the Breitling Mondphase Chrono 90 reflects the aesthetic sensibilities of the 1990s, while also paying homage to Breitling's heritage. The case, typically crafted from stainless steel or gold-plated steel, often features a moderate size, usually around 38-40mm in diameter. This size makes it wearable for a variety of wrist sizes and preferences, distinguishing it from the larger, more robust Breitling models popular in later years.

The dial is typically adorned with a variety of sub-dials, hands, and indices, creating a visually rich and informative display. The layout of these elements is carefully considered to ensure legibility and balance. The use of different textures, colors, and finishes on the dial adds depth and sophistication. Common dial colors include white, silver, and black, with variations in the color of the sub-dials and the moon phase display.

The hands and indices are often treated with luminous material, allowing for visibility in low-light conditions. The use of Arabic numerals or baton indices varies depending on the specific model. A date window, typically located at the 3 o'clock position, adds another layer of functionality.

The bezel of the Mondphase Chrono 90 is often smooth or features a tachymeter scale, allowing the wearer to calculate speed based on distance traveled. The crown is typically signed with the Breitling logo. The watch is usually fitted with a leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet, complementing the overall aesthetic of the timepiece.

The Movement: The Heart of the Matter

The Breitling Mondphase Chrono 90 is powered by a high-quality automatic movement, typically based on the Valjoux 7750 or similar chronograph caliber, modified with the addition of the moon phase complication. These movements are renowned for their reliability, accuracy, and robustness. The Valjoux 7750, in particular, is a workhorse movement that has been used in countless chronograph watches over the years.

The addition of the moon phase module requires careful engineering and precision assembly. The module is typically driven by the hour wheel, which in turn drives a series of gears that rotate a disc depicting the moon. The disc is visible through a small aperture on the dial, allowing the wearer to track the lunar cycle.

The movement is typically decorated with perlage and Côtes de Genève, adding a touch of visual appeal. The rotor is often signed with the Breitling logo. The movement is protected by a solid case back, which may be engraved with information about the watch.

Historical Context: A Bridge Between Eras

The Breitling Mondphase Chrono 90 emerged during a period of significant change within the watch industry. The quartz crisis had subsided, and mechanical watches were experiencing a resurgence in popularity. Breitling, under the leadership of Ernest Schneider, was focused on re-establishing its reputation as a maker of high-quality chronographs.

The Mondphase Chrono 90 represents a bridge between Breitling's historical expertise in aviation chronographs and its modern approach to watchmaking. It draws inspiration from earlier Breitling models, such as the Montbrillant 1461, which also featured a moon phase complication. However, the Mondphase Chrono 90 incorporates more modern design elements and materials.